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You unboxed your NICREW HyperReef 200 Gen 2. It’s heavy, sleek, and powerful. But as you stare at your aquarium, the anxiety sets in:
* How high should I mount it?
* Is one enough, or do I need two?
* How do I stop the rocks from casting dark shadows?
Lighting a reef tank is an exercise in geometry. A poorly placed 800 light will perform worse than a well-placed 200 light. This guide will help you optimize the HyperReef 200 Gen 2 to banish shadows and ensure every polyp gets its share of sunshine.
The Geometry of Coverage: The 120-Degree Advantage
The first thing to understand is the Beam Angle. The Gen 2 features a 120-degree lens. This is significantly wider than the standard 90-degree lenses found on many older units.
* The Physics: A wider angle means the light spreads out faster as it travels down.
* The Benefit: You can mount the light closer to the water surface while still covering the edges of the tank. This reduces light spill into your living room (blinding you while you watch TV) and focuses the energy into the water.
Optimal Mounting Height Rule
For the HyperReef 200 Gen 2, the sweet spot for mounting height is 8 to 10 inches above the water surface.
* < 8 Inches: You risk “disco-balling” (color separation) and salt spray damage. The spread might not reach the tank edges.
* > 12 Inches: You gain coverage but lose significant PAR (intensity) due to the Inverse Square Law. Light spill becomes annoying.
* The Sweet Spot (9″): At 9 inches, the 120-degree cone covers a 24″ x 24″ area with high-intensity PAR perfectly suitable for SPS corals. For LPS/Softies, it can stretch to 30″ x 30″.
Solving the Shadow Problem: The Two-Light Strategy
If you have a complex aquascape with arches, caves, and overhangs, a single point-source light—no matter how good—will cast hard shadows. The branches of your top corals will shade the ones below.
The Solution: Cross-Lighting.
Instead of one high-power light in the center, use two HyperReefs spaced apart.
* Scenario: A 4-foot (48″) tank.
* Bad Setup: One giant light in the middle. The ends are dark; shadows are harsh.
* Good Setup: Two HyperReef 200s, spaced 12 inches from each end (centers at 12″ and 36″).
* Why It Works: The light beams overlap in the center. A coral on the left side of a rock gets hit by the left light directly, and its shadow on the right side is filled in by the right light. This “blanket coverage” mimics the diffuse nature of the sky and is critical for Acropora colonies that need light on all sides to prevent base recession.
The Acclimation Phase: Don’t Burn Your Corals!
The HyperReef 200 Gen 2 is a 200-watt beast. It is significantly brighter than most stock lights or T5 fixtures. If you switch it to 100% immediately, you will photo-shock and bleach your corals.
The Acclimation Protocol:
1. Start Low: Set the overall intensity to 30-40% for the first week.
2. Ramp Up Slowly: Increase intensity by 5% per week.
3. Watch the Corals:
* Paling/White Tips: Too much light. Back off.
* Brown/Dull Color: Not enough light. Increase slightly.
* Stretching Upward: Desperate for light. Increase.
Configuring the Channels for Success
With the 5-channel controller, you have infinite options. Here is a proven starting template for a “Mixed Reef” (LPS + SPS):
- Channel 1 (White): 30-50%. Enough for visual clarity, but not the main driver.
- Channel 2 (Blue): 80-100%. The engine. Max this out for growth.
- Channel 3 (Violet): 80-100%. Essential for color pop and protein generation.
- Channel 4 (Red/Green): 10-20%. Use sparingly! Too much red promotes algae growth. Just enough to make fish colors look right.
- Channel 5 (Moonlight): 1-5%. Subtle night viewing.
Summary: Thoughtful Placement Yields Results
The NICREW HyperReef 200 Gen 2 is a powerful photon cannon. But like a fire hose, it needs to be aimed correctly. By respecting mounting heights, considering multiple units for cross-lighting, and acclimating slowly, you transform raw power into a nurturing environment where shadows vanish and corals thrive.
